This is A Detailed Solution to the Care and Breeding of the Australian Thick Tailed/ Barking Gecko, Thank you Shawn Scott to send me this great sheet and i hope that he'll share with us some of his pics!
A Detailed Solution to the Care and Breeding of the Australian Thick Tailed/ Barking GeckoScientific Name:
Underwoodisaurus Milii General IntroductionThe Thick Tailed Gecko, otherwise known as the Barking Gecko is one of Australia’s most recognisable and beautiful looking species.
It is a medium sized Gecko and is known as the most cold tolerant but most heat stressed of the Geckos. Its secondary name, The Barking Gecko comes from its ability to vocalize its anger and aggression, easily if disturbed. They will stand high on their legs, curl or wave their tail and leap at the predator whilst emitting a loud “Hiss-cum” barking noise. Easily getting stressed and aggravated if Temperatures exceed 28oC. However, on the other end of the scale, they are one of the most cold tolerant, being recorded of Hunting at below 8oC Nighttime temp. Like all species of Geckos’ this species is Nocturnal. Being apart of the Underwoodisaurus Genus’, this species only has one relative. The Granite Belt/ Border Thick Tailed Gecko (U.Sphyrurus) inhabits Granite and Rock outcrops of Border Victoria and New South Wales. U.Sphyrurus is currently not kept in captivity in Australia. U.Milii has a pattern of creamy/ white coloured Tubercles (enlarged scales) that go Horizontally across the back. At the neck, they may also have a chained pattern. They also have Tubercles ranging across the tail in a lesser pattern. Regenerated Tails lack all patterning, colour and texture. These Geckos are very easy to keep as long as the temperatures do not exceed the temps described above and given suitable hiding areas around the enclosure. These Geckos’ have claws thus lacking the Lamellae covered fingers to climb. This species does not need a lid, as they cannot climb glass. Females may reach 13-14cms while Males only reach about 11-12cms. It may be possible for this species to reach 15-18 years in captivity if care for correctly.
Status in Captivity & General MaintenanceThis species would have to be Australia’s most popular Gecko species in Captivity due to it’s size, cute look, easy caring and of course- they breed like rabbits! They are easily cared for if given: suitable heat, a little sand, hides and food- that is it! They are not a burrowing species so large amounts of substrate are completely un-necessary. They can be kept on newspaper, paper towels, sand, sand x coir peat etc. Hatchlings become readily available at reasonable prices upon the middle of the breeding season when neonates emerge from hatching eggs. Adults are not common in the trade as people keep them to create breeding stock. Adult Males are most common when Adults are being sold as people just think they can create breeding trios or groups as you can have one male and up to five females to a cage. Never keep multiple Males together as they will fight to the death. Clean the cage once weekly to remove defecation’ and to just keep everything ‘tip top.’
Thick Tail Gecko prices depend on the seller and vary a lot depending on: availability, colour, health, size, age etc. These are rough prices: Hatchlings- $60-80, Sexed Sub-Adults: $80-$120, Adults: $120-$150.
Caging/ HousingOne thing about Thick Tailed Geckos is that they are terrestrial and rarely climb. Being that, they require floor space a lot more than height. Aquariums, terrariums and Vivariums are suitable as long as they are large enough. A cage measuring 2x1 feet is suitable for a pair or trio. I prefer the use of Aquariums for this species basically due to the facts: they are escape proof (even without a lid), the hold substantial amounts of weight, the glass can be used a cool retreats and the glass is unaffected by water. I use sand but other substrates (described above) are also suitable. I use Yellow Smooth sand but red desert etc is also suitable. They do not need a lot of sand so around 2 inches around the entire enclosure is ideal. During breeding, always keep one end of the sand damp by spraying nightly. Spraying also helps in maintaining Moisture and humidity levels, shedding/ sloughing and drinking. Also add rocks, logs etc for decorational sense and to make them feel like they are in their natural habitat. Artificial Hides are used all the time. Always keep a filled and clean water dish/ bowl in the enclosure. Also put a small rock or pebble in the water bowl to stop drowning of both, the feed and the Geckos.
Heating/ Lighting Thick Tails being easily heat stressed do not need large amounts of heating at all. In some states (QLD, NT) you may not even need heating. Though, in cooler states, heating may need to be provided in summer to bring on breeding. Though, in winter, many breeders turn ALL heating off! There a few methods in which you can heat your Thick Tail/ barking gecko enclosures, these include: Heating/ basking Globes, heating tape/ Cord or heat Mats/pads. I prefer the use of Globes as I can position the globe where I want and to the geckos, it is the real sun. Position your heating element on one side of the cage, not the middle- so then the Gecko CAN creates itself a Thermal Gradient. A thermal Gradient is when the Gecko can choose an appropriate nesting and hiding areas in the temp that suits him/ her. When the Gecko feels too warm, it can go to the cool side, vice versa. In summer, you can maintain the cages at about 25-27oC during the day and at night, the temp drop to about 15-18oC. In winter, the daytime temps can be maintained at 18-20oC and Nighttime temps should not drop below 12oC. This replicates summer and winter for the Geckos and when the temps rise considerably for summer’s return, these Geckos will breed. A thermostat should be used so that the mentioned temps can be maintained and recorded. You should also have a thermometer. UVA-UVB lights are not required as the Geckos are nocturnal.
Feeding/ WaterThick Tails are aggressive feeders, which draws more people to get them, as they are easy to get established. They are stalkers and will stalk their prey until striking distance is evident and then they strike. They will feed on anything that is small enough to fit in their mouth and that moves. They are basically insectivorous but will feed on small animals and other Geckos. Young Thick Tails will sometimes miss as they ‘strike before they think’, I say. A safe size for your Thick Tails can be seen by the space between their eyes, feed food items that are no larger than that gap. If fed to larger food Items, Geckos may choke and die. Prey Items should be dusted with a Calcium, Multi Vitamin and Mineral Powder on every second or third feed to ensure the Gecko gets a good amount of those necessary supplements. I recommend ‘Ultimate Calcium’ and ‘Ultimate Vitamin’ supplied by URS (Ultimate Reptile Suppliers), which is provided by most good pet and reptile shops. This is easily accomplished by putting the appropriate amount of powder in a separate container and then dropping the appropriate amount of feed into that container. Then stir/ shake gently until the feed is covered in the powder. Thick Tail geckos will most likely feed on: Crickets, Locusts, grasshoppers, cockroaches, moths, spiders, scorpions, small bugs, beetles, worms and other Geckos. In captivity, you can feed: Crickets, Woodies (Australian Wood Cockroaches), Moths and Mealworms. I would never feed my animals mealworms as they have a hard shell and this is hard for the Gecko to crush in its jaws when feeding. If the Shell is not crushed and the Mealworm is still alive upon swallowing, the mealworm will be in the Geckos’ stomach and the mealworm will eat its way out, ending in a dead Gecko .
Feed Safe insects. Always keep a clean and full water bowl in the enclosure though it is rarely used. Spray/ Mist the cage every few days to keep moisture levels and humidity levels but to also hydrate the Geckos. If the Geckos are out, spray them lightly on the face, as they will lick the droplets off of their eyes and face. They will also lick surrounding areas, glass, rocks etc.
Breeding/ IncubatingThick Tail geckos would have to be one of the easiest Geckos to breed in captivity. As long as you provide damp nesting site/ box, a good cooling period, raise the heat and raise food, they will breed at the drop of a hat. At about July, you should lower the temps gradually to suit the winter temps described above. They should be fed about once every week or fortnight depending on age, health and size of the specimen. Adults can successfully be cooled whilst it is not advised for juvies or hatchies. Cooling Periods should start at around June/ July until September when you can gradually increase the temps back up to the summer temps described above. At that point, you should also increase their food. Feeding then at the normal rate of every 2nd or 3rd night. Once they feel ready, it is time for Breeding! They will generally breed right away but some may wait a week or two. When the female is receptive, the male will notice immediately and carry out mating behaviour. He will most definitely start off by biting of her tail and gradually making his way up to her neck and then they begin to mate. Receptive females will simply lie still in position whilst the male approaches. However, non-receptive females are a different story. They will fight the males off, wave her tail in his face or simply run away. Non-receptive females do not take long to become ready, as all that needs to happen is to increase food. When mating occurs, she may raise her tail so the male can ‘position’ himself correctly. Mating may last several minutes and can even take ½ an hour. If the male wants to stay and she wants to go, there’s nothing stopping her- the male will be dragged around the enclosure, still in position until he gives up and finishes. About 2 weeks later, provided the mating was successful, she will become noticeably Gravid (pregnant). Laying of the Eggs can take different amounts of time. The usual time for deposition is around 4-6 weeks depending on age, size and health. First time Females may take a little longer, even 8-9 weeks. Any longer than that, seek a Reptile Vet. Provide 1 or 2 nesting sites. I find Cricket containers to be quite useful. Simply cut a medium sized hole at the top of the container, even up to the rim. The lid will still be able to click on and off. Fill up to the hole in the container with Yellow Smooth sand and Coir Peat. Always keep this container moist, well the substrate inside. Dig a suitable sized hole in the sand which you can place the container in, inside the enclosure. Cover the whole Container with sand, except for the entrance hole. Peer inside and it should be pitch black. Make two of these nesting boxes and place one in the hot end of the cage and one in the cool end of the cage. Place these containers in at the beginning of when you raise your temperatures back up, at the end of the cooling period. The female will then be comfortable with hiding in them and she may lay in them too. Always keep these sites moist. When ready, she may lay in them; otherwise, you will have fun finding them in the sand around the whole cage! She will most likely lay them at the bottom of the nest box or the bottom of the cage. As soon as possible, remove the eggs gently and place them in an egg container. Just get another cricket container (Don’t cut it up) just fill it 1:1 with Vermiculite and water. Place the eggs on top of the Vermiculite and get ready for incubation! Only two eggs (rarely 1) will be laid each clutch. You can really incubate them however you want as long as you can keep the incubation temperature at a stable 27-29oC. If kept at that, the eggs should hatch in around 6-8weeks. Air the containers about each fortnight to supply the eggs with new oxygen. Each breeding season, Thick Tails will usually have a dud clutch, maybe two. This is where the clutch of eggs is completely un-viable and will not hatch. It is not your fault, it is just what happens. Each season, you can expect up to 6 or 7 clutches of eggs. Obviously, one or two clutches may be dud clutches but 5 or 6 clutches is as many as you would want to expect from any healthy female.
Care for Neonates/ Hatchlings similarly to Adults but separate Hatchlings when sexes are identifiable. The Breeding season for Thick Tailed/ Barking Geckos ends at March and at that point, you can remove Males until the Breeding season returns or not, it really does not matter but when females ARE Gravid, remove the male until she has laid and the re-introduce him so they can mate again!
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AcknowledgementsI would like to thank the following people for helping me with this species: Jason Lapins, Garry Stokes, Sarah Codman, Ian Renton, Ian Rudd and Andrew Chant.
Shawn Scott
Copyright © 2007- Shawn Scott Do not duplicate without permission
(i'll translate it in italian as soon as possible! - Lo tradurrò in italiano il più presto possibile!)
